The Camino de Santiago – Walking the French Way

Pilgrimages may be a relatively new term in popular culture, but the truth is, people have felt called to make pilgrimages for thousands of years.  While some are highly individual, there are also common routes followed by many, all around the world.  Almost every faith has pilgrimages in its traditions, and yet, some pilgrims make there way for reasons that have nothing to do with religion.  They feel somehow compelled to undertake the challenges of the journey.  Perhaps they are in search of something that is very personal.  Whether or not they find exactly what they are looking for, they always find something.  This I know from experience.

My name is Sheree, the founder of Winging the World.  I felt that call myself, and it led me to undertake walking the French Way of the Camino de Santiago.  It was one of the biggest challenges I have ever experienced, and at the same time, one of the most rewarding experiences I have ever had.  I know there are many others who feel compelled to make their own journey.  I have put my experiences into writing this beginners guide to walking the Camino, and walking the French Way.

What is the Camino de Santiago?

The Camino de Santiago is the stuff of legends. Also commonly known as the ‘Way of Saint James’, this is a pilgrimage with a long history. The Camino can be started from anywhere on earth but always finishes in the city of Santiago de Compostela, western Spain. It is one of the most popular long-distance walking trails in the world. Comprising a network of established routes, all varying in distance and growing in popularity, it won’t be long before the Camino de Santiago is fully sown into western European culture.

Although there are traditionally nine pilgrimage routes, your Camino journey can be started from anywhere in the world, provided you join one of these trails at some point. Before embarking on your journey, you can visit your local church or pilgrim’s office to obtain your credencial or pilgrim passport. It is also possible to purchase these at many cities and stops along the Camino route. There is a small fee for this but the credencial allows you prove you are a pilgrim which will enable you to stay in cheaper pilgrim only accommodation (commonly known as albergues, refugios and gites d’étapes) and qualify for pilgrim dinners. The passport has spaces for stamps so that you are able to track your progress and prove you have walked at least the minimum of 100 km along a prescribed path in order to obtain your Compostela certificate.

How did the Camino de Santiago begin?

Although in modern times the Camino de Santiago is done for numerous reasons that don’t involve religion, it was originally a pilgrimage.

Legend has it that when Santiago, one of the original apostles more commonly known as St James, passed away, his body was placed into a boat. There was a terrible storm and the boat was washed up along the coast of Spain. Many of the Free Walking Tours in Santiago de Compostela will tell you that when his body was discovered, he was covered in clamshells, which then became the official symbol of this sacred pilgrimage.

The Culture Trip says that when word reached the monarchy, King Alfonso II decided that the relics would be buried in a special place. Over time, this place evolved into the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela which is why the trail finishes here.

In terms of the route creation, much of this is still a mystery. Historians suspect that through word of mouth, pilgrims learnt which paths were safest and the way was created from there. Although the Camino is generally a very safe trek in modern times, the original pilgrims would have risked their lives to complete the journey. Exposure to the elements and crime used to be commonplace on the trail during the Middle Ages.

Trends show that the Camino has recently experienced a huge boom in numbers and is now viewed as one of Spain’s major tourist attractions. In 1993, UNESCO declared the routes a World Heritage Site which saw an increase in pilgrim numbers. This was only heightened after the film ‘The Way’ was released, which features the fictional tale of a grieving father who walks the Camino in memory of his son who died while making the journey.

Walking the French Way of the Camino de Santiago across Northern Spain

How can I prepare for my Camino?

When it comes to preparing for the Camino de Santiago, there is sadly no simple ‘one size fits all’ answer. How much preparation you need to do before you embark on the walk, largely depends on your level of fitness and hiking experience. Although many people worry that you need to be an experienced long-distance hiker to walk the Camino, this is simply not true. Anyone can walk the Camino de Santiago providing they prepare to the best of their ability and listen to their body when needed.

What do I need to do to physically prepare?

To get physically prepared for the Camino, you should begin your training small. You will injure yourself if you push too hard at the start so allow yourself enough time to fit in the necessary training prior to your departure. You will need to practice walking over long distances, which should be increased weekly. You will also need to familiarise yourself with different types of terrain, including flat, muddy and mountainous. For those of you without nearby access to a mountain range, make sure you cover some hills. Hiking practice should always be undertaken whilst wearing your Camino gear including boots. Trust me when I say you don’t want to be breaking these in on the trail! A weighted backpack should be worn to allow you to become used to the realities of hiking in your full gear.

What should I pack?

When it comes to what pack, things get a little tricky. Less is definitely more. Choose a rucksack with both chest and hip straps to take the weight off your back. Allow at least one outfit for hiking and one for relaxing. You will need to prepare for all weather types, even if you do the Camino in the summer. Ideally, your pack should weigh no more than 10% of your overall body weight. Taking too much stuff is likely to cause back strain and walking injury. Don’t forget a guidebook or download the CaminoTool app so that you are able to get a stage by stage breakdown of the route. If you are seriously considering the Camino, you will want a more detailed Camino packing list.

What should my budget be?

In order to work out your finances for the Camino de Santiago you must first consider how much time you have. The French Way is a great choice for those with day jobs and limited vacation time as there are numerous convenient starting points along the trails. We will go into details about specific itineraries later in this post.

At the time of writing, municipal albergues which are government-run, generally cost anything from €4-€10 per night. Some of these hostels have cooking facilities and others may include breakfast. Private albergues are generally more expensive and can be found from €8 plus. They generally benefit from smaller dorms, fewer guests and nicer facilities. A pilgrim dinner, which contains three courses plus either wine or water, generally ranges between €7-€15. Be aware that as your body becomes used to the increased exercise, you will begin to burn many more calories. This will result in ‘hiker hunger’ which almost certainly means you will have to increase your food intake to counter the calories you are using on exercise. With all of this considered, it would be very possible to budget €30 per day.

How long does the French Way take?

If you have a month…

Traditionally, the French Way of the Camino de Santiago begins in the small town of St. Jean Pied-de-Port in France. This first part of the trail sees the crossing of the France/Spain border and involves passing through the Pyrenees Mountain range. It is one of the most challenging parts of the entire journey.

The Camino de Santiago is a mix of terrain, encompassing mountain ranges, farm tracks, vineyards and city walking. There are notable large cities en route which it is possible to fly into.

If you are beginning your Camino journey in St Jean Pied-de-Port, you will need to allow at least 31 days to reach Santiago de Compostela. This doesn’t account for any rest days and relies on you covering an average of 23.6 km of ground a day. If you are new to long to distance hiking (or even if you are not), it is worth accounting for a few extra days in case of unforeseen circumstances or injury. ‘A Pilgrims Guide to the Camino de Santiago’ by John Brierley is perhaps the most notable and respected guide and can give in-depth breakdowns of the distances needed to complete each stage.

Although a guidebook is recommended, it is not necessary to complete the hike. Signs are spread out at regular points along all of the Camino routes so it is very difficult to get lost. Simply look out for the yellow clamshell against a blue background. Signs come in the form of pillars, yellow arrows, statues, cairns and stickers. These are a mix of both official Camino signage as well as clues left by other helpful pilgrims.

It took me a grand total of 40 days to complete the Camino from St. Jean. Although this involved no rest days, I did suffer from tendonitis around half way through and had to cut my distances to account for this. My boyfriend and I were also meeting a friend towards the end so we needed to do short days to make sure we wouldn’t overshoot our meeting point.

One of the wonderful things about the Camino de Santiago is that it is as flexible as you need it to be. Owing to its length, the route can be covered in sections, over years if necessary (your pilgrim passport never expires), or you can start closer to Santiago de Compostela if you are short on time.

If you have 3 weeks…

A good starting point if you have three weeks is the city of Burgos. There is an airport located on the outskirts of the city. Burgos is known for its impressive architecture and jaw-dropping cathedral which is definitely worth visiting if you can spare the time. The three-week itinerary from Burgos includes a few rest days.

If you have 2 weeks…

León is a beautiful city and one of the most memorable on the Camino. It showcases some of Spain’s finest gothic architecture including the Casa de los Botines designed by Gaudí, most famous for his work in Barcelona. There is an airport located just 6 km from León city centre which makes it a good starting point.

If you have a week…

Sarria is the last possible point where you can start your journey along the French Way and still qualify for your Compostela certificate. This is the most popular start point of the Camino and the crowds intensify at this point. Leaving a week to complete the trek from Sarria will allow sufficient time and also permit a couple of days at the end of your journey to explore the city of Santiago de Compostela.

There is no airport at Sarria so to fly there you would need to go to the nearest alternative Santiago de Compostela airport. From here, you can take a direct train to Sarria twice a day or travel to the nearby city of Lugo to take connecting transport.

Insider tips from a pilgrim

There is a huge plethora of Camino based information on the internet. However, with the route growing in popularity at an alarming rate, it can be difficult to get off of the beaten track, especially when you are following a prescribed route.

Accommodation

Whilst I would definitely recommend the use of the Brierley guidebook, I would strongly urge pilgrims to break the stages differently and travel one town further or stop one town earlier.

The accommodation options at the end of a Brierley stage are always busy and in peak season you will need to ensure an early arrival to guarantee a bed. By stopping before or after a stage end, you will benefit from less competition for beds, fewer people and generally, a more peaceful place to rest your head.

These were some of my accommodation highlights from the French Way of the Camino de Santiago:

Zabaldika Parroquial, donativo – Accommodation ran by volunteers and nuns on a donation basis. Make sure to attend Mass in the evening even if you aren’t Catholic, the nuns are fascinating.
Vianna, Santa Maria Parroquial, donativo – For a donation of your choice, bunk on the church floor with a basic mattress. A communal dinner is offered in the evening after Mass.
La Finca, Población – A privately run albergue just past Fromista. Pod style rooms with curtains offer pilgrims some much-needed privacy.
Covent Garden, León – A hip, privately run albergue. Decorated in 50’s/60’s retro style, this is sure to be a place you will remember!
Casa Garcia, Gonzar – This cute private albergue is set inside a small cottage. The walls are made from natural stone which gives it a rustic look. There is a bar and they also offer set meals for pilgrims.

Rise early

As horrible as they are at the time, early starts are better than late ones as you can skip ahead of the crowds and get in a few hours of trekking prior to sunrise. Beds at albergues are dished out on a first come first served basis so if you are on a tight budget and are looking to stay at a municipal albergue or donativo, you will want to arrive as early as possible.

Hike your own hike

It can be easy to get caught up in the distances you cover every day. As you would expect, kilometres are one of the top conversations on a hikers lips! I would advise everyone walking the Camino de Santiago to take other people’s distances with a pinch of salt. It is not a race and you should always hike your own hike. Trying to keep up with other people is far more likely to cause you injury and spoil your Camino journey.

Listen to your body

The best piece of advice that I was given about hiking the Camino de Santiago is undoubtedly this: listen to your body. This is a strenuous trek over a long distance which will inevitably come with challenges. Conditions such as tendonitis, knee pain and exhaustion can all have a devastating effect on your Camino – if you let them. Take rest days if you need to and don’t be afraid to cut your distances if required. Medical advice should not be ignored if you are really suffering. Although you may have a specific time slot in which to walk the Camino, it is better to enjoy what you can, rather than rush ahead in agonising pain to meet the deadline. As the pilgrim passport has no expiry, there is nothing stopping you from continuing your adventure at another opportunity, even if this is a year or two away.

Why hike the French Way of the Camino de Santiago?

Walking the Camino de Santiago is one of the most rewarding things you will ever do. It will push you to your limits and make you achieve things you never dreamed possible. Whilst any of the nine routes is sure to be an adventure in its own right, there are also some unique reasons to walk the French Way.

The French Way is arguably the most well-facilitated path to Santiago de Compostela. The route is saturated with hostels, which means that finding a bed is rarely a problem, even in peak season. Owing to the number of towns and cities frequented on the route, it is also a good option for first-time hikers. There are pharmacies and medical centres at regular intervals so if you require medical attention, help is never far away.

The terrain is along the French Way is as diverse as it is beautiful. Your route will be characterised by lush green mountains, farm tracks and dry vineyards. The Way will also guide you through both quaint villages and bustling cities, all steeped in their own unique history.

As the most popular of the routes and the trail that sees the most visitors annually according to the National Pilgrim Office, the French Way is also the most social trail. As an introvert, I expected to complete the entire trek with my boyfriend and make few friends. However, after only a few days, I met the first of my fellow hikers who I would get to know well along the journey.

It surprised me that there were so many solo hikers and introverts on the trail but the Camino de Santiago is a great place to take stock of your thoughts. The people I met became close friends and I have stayed in touch with nearly all of them since returning home. Going through something as physically and emotionally draining as walking the Camino together is sure to bond you in a way little else can.

I hope this beginners guide to walking the Camno de Santiago and walking the French Way has helped you see that you can do it, and if you feel called, you should.

About the Author

Sheree is the awkward British wanderluster behind Winging the World. You can usually find her falling into toilets, embarrassing herself publicly or running away from feral animals. Sheree wants to prove that if a clueless wimp like her can travel, then anyone can!  You can find her on her website, on Facebook, and on Instagram.