Munster Prinzipalmarkt buildings.

Munster – One of Germany’s Coolest Cities

Munster is one of those overlooked cities that doesn’t show up on a lot of German travel itineraries.  In a way it makes sense, since northwest Germany is loaded with amazing cities: Dusseldorf, Cologne, Hamburg, and Bremen, among others.  But having spent some time in the city, I think everyone traveling in Germany should visit Munster.  There are a ton of things to do in Munster, and no huge crowd to fight while doing them.  Munster, Germany is easy, comfortable, beautiful, and, well, kinda hip.  If you will be traveling anywhere in the area, we want to be sure you know about all of those cool, only in Munster things to do. 

To be honest, when our hosts told us we would spend a couple of days in Munster, I thought well, we will learn about cheese.  Otherwise, I had no idea.  It turns out, I had my Munsters all mixed up. I had been to the state of Munster, in Ireland, with a plain U.  And I learned that Muenster with an E is in France, and that is where the cheese comes from.  In Germany, it is Munster with an umlaut, (which I do not have on my keyboard), and it is somewhat known to Americans for its careful replication of the city after World War II.  Munster is known to the rest of Germany and Europe for much bigger things.

My first impressions of the city were something of a little sister to Amsterdam with an American cousin, with bicycles and pisseurs, and suburbanesque neighborhoods.  Later we would visit the University area, where young and old intermingled freely.  It reminded me a bit of home, and the University of Illinois, in Champaign.

 

Munster street scene, bicycles and outdoor urinals, like Amsterdam.
Yes, that is a pisseur, an outdoor urinal near the train station. Around the corner, if you look closely, there are rows and rows of bicycles.

 

Over the next few days we would see the classic Altstadt, the Prinzipalmarkt, state of the art community buildings, remnants of the Holy Roman Empire, the Third Reich and Allied military occupation, almost side by side, and grand outdoor areas thriving with activity.  Somehow it all melds together in a funky, eclectic vibe, that feels good. Wrap that all up with some fabulous sites and things to do, and it makes a great place to visit.

So, let us tell you a bit more of the history of this cool city.  You know I wouldn’t feel the article is complete if I didn’t share some history!  Then it will be on to some of those cool Munster things to do.



Munster History

The city origins date back to the 8th century.  From the onset, it was a significant Bishopric seat in the Holy Roman Empire.  For those not up on all of the Roman Empire stuff, this is the period of time after Rome as a central country and government had actually come to an end. However Rome had given substantial power to religious leaders and they were reluctant to give that up.  They opted to continue ruling through the empire traditions, as bequeathed by God, to maintain this power. 

There was the Eastern Roman Empire, composed of what we now consider the Balkans, and part of Turkey, also known as the Byzantine Empire, which fell around 1500. Then in central Europe, the Holy Roman Empire oversaw the various countries and kingdoms, with an Emperor crowned by the Pope himself.  Charlemagne was the first Holy Roman Emperor.

 

Image depicting the Holy Roman Empir Byzantine Empire.e compared to the
Red areas indicate the breadth of the Holy Roman Empire while blue areas represent the Byzantine Empire.

 

Even as a history lover, keeping track of all of that empire stuff in Europe is a bit much.  So in simplest terms, there were a lot of individual kingdoms throughout central Europe, but the emperor assumed authority over them through religion and military strength, for about a thousand years.  It was Charlemagne’s own missionary, who founded the city of Munster, just before 800 A.D. The city and surrounding territory were ruled by a Catholic Bishop, uninterrupted, for about 700 years, and after a brief interruption, for another 300 years.

In 1532, about 15 years after the Protestant Reformation had begun, a group of revolutionaries seized control of the Munster churches, and within a year, they had control of the entire city.  The leaders of this rebellion followed practices known as Anabaptist, and proclaimed they were founding the New Jerusalem, for Christ’s second coming.




The Anabaptists acquired substantial power, and may have maintained control were it not for a period of disease and famine.  With their weakened state, the former Bishop of the Empire, retook the city, slaughtering the revolutionary leaders.  To show his authority, and to ward off any future dissension, the bodies of the Anabaptist leaders were publicly suspended in cages in the steeple of St. Lambert’s Church in the center of the city, and left to rot.  Talk about instilling the fear of God!

Later, the city would become a focal point for a more significant political reformation in 1648, when, along with Osnabruck, it became a center of negotiations between various kingdoms and leagues, to end both the Thirty Years War, and the Eighty Years War.  Delegates from numerous countries, including Spain, France, Sweden, the United Netherlands, and the Holy Roman Empire, met, searching to find peace among themselves. Eventually a group of treaties would be signed, including the Treaty of Osnabruck, and the Treaty of Munster.  The combination of all would become known as The Peace of Westphalia. These documents form the foundations of order and national sovereignty that stands in Europe, even through today, and are honored and celebrated world wide.

 

Painting of the signing of the Westphalian Peace.
Painting of the Ratification of the Treaty of Munster.

 

In the 20th century Munster would be a center of attention again, this time during World War II.  It was here that the bold Catholic Cardinal von Galen delivered powerful sermons against the Nazi Party.  Some sermons would later be used on flyers that the British Airmen released on their flyovers, and be used by the White Rose Resistance.  

This bold speaking garnered Hitler’s attention, and it is documented that he stated in other terms, that both the Cardinal and the Catholic Church were well aware of what the repercussions for these actions would be once the war was over.  It is also said to be a primary reason for the increased military presence in the city, as Munster had a notably high number of barracks and military service facilities surrounding the city. It would also ultimately be this increased military presence that would make the city a target.  After his death, the Cardinal was Beatified by the Pope, and is buried in the city.



Since the war, Munster has quietly rebuilt, becoming a hub for science, technology and art.  It is an eco-conscious city, with protected wildlife areas, a preference for bicycle transport, and greenspaces for public enjoyment throughout.  It is also a city with a big focus on community and family, with services such as short term childcare in the city center, while parents make professional appointments.  

In 2004, it was voted the most livable mid-sized city in the world, beating out such notables as Seattle, Changshu, and Coventry. I am not the only one who thinks it is a great place to be!

 

About those Cool Things to Do in Munster..

The Prinzipalmarkt

Vintage elcetric car tours are available on the Prinzipalmarkt.
Vintage car tours are a fun way to see the Prinzipalmarkt.

 

Munster boasts one of those can’t miss Altstadts, or old towns, the Prinzipalmarkt, or main market place.  The Prinzipalmarkt is a perfect German experience for visitors who have a traditional notion of what that experience should be.  This is the area of the city that was completely destroyed during the war. In the 40s and 50s, painstaking care was taken to rebuild the streets in exact replication of their pre-war state.

I was almost swooning as soon as I stepped off of the bus.  Cobbled streets are lined with gabled buildings on both sides.  The details are intricate, and I noticed right away that although there are similarities, no two buildings were exactly alike.  It truly felt like a step back in time.

Hanging street signs in Munster, Prinzipalmarkt.

Hanging Street signs in Munster Prinzipalmarkt.

 

 

 

 

Vintage hanging signs add a charming character, and inform passersby of what lies inside.  In many cases, the interior was as detailed and individual as the front.

Browsing in Munster Prinzipalmarkt.
Browsing in the Prinzipalmarkt.

 

This is considered one of Germany’s loveliest shopping streets.  I am not a shopper, but those who are may be in heaven. All of the high-end brands are present, intermingled with cafes and pubs.  Store fronts are protected by a covered promenade, so shoppers can indulge even when the weather is not at its best.

 

Negotiating with a tour operator in Munster Prinzpalmarkt, one of the cool things to do in Munster.
Attempting to negotiate a ride in the vintage electric cars.

 

A really fun way to see te Prinzipalmarkt is by taking a chauffeured ride in a vintage electric car.  Sadly, when we arrived it approaching time for the driver to close up shop. Our hosts attempted to negotiate a ride, for a higher fee, which made me chuckle a bit.  It seemed like something the American would do, rather than the German host, and I was again reminded how often our stereotypes can be wrong. Either way it didn’t matter, as the car was running out of power, and needed to recharge, so no ride.

The Rathaus and Freidenssaal

Munster Rathaus, one the Munster cool things to do.
Approaching the Munster Rathaus, or City Hall.

The Rathaus in Munster, or city hall, is one of the centerpieces of the Prinzipalmarkt.  It is quite detailed and unique, even by German standards. Consistent with the other structures, it was built-in Gothic style, with elaborate details. I took photos of everything that caught my eye!  I didn’t realize until later that the top clearly showed the former church rule in the city, with its statues from the Holy Roman Empire. I could be wrong, but pretty sure the primary statue is Charlemagne.

The Rathaus also houses the Friedenssaal.  This is where the negotiations and signing for the Peace of Westphalia took place.  There is a museum, and the rooms that were actually used are restored to what they would have been like at that time.  The museum has been honored with awards and recognition from around the world.

 



 

The Rathaus is still the base for local government and a center for the community.  At the time of our visit there was a crowd gathered, watching a young man sweep.  We learned that there is a northern German tradition that requires a would-be groom to demonstrate his love and faithfulness to his betrothed by sweeping the steps of city hall.  We had the pleasure of watching this tradition in action. The young men swept and swept, in his crazy costume, as his family and friends tossed a continuous stream of bottle caps for him to sweep, to up the challenge. The young bride and her family watched with lots of giggles.  

Lambertkirche (St. Lambert’s Church)

Lambertkirche, St. Lambert's Church, a Munster cool thing to do.

 

Almost next door to the Rathaus is St. Lambert’s Church, or Lambirti.  This church is one of those gotta see places for me, and it is significant for several reasons.  The church is remarkably detailed, again built-in Gothic style. We found several details that seem to almost match some of the most well-known cathedrals around the world, including Notre Dame and Cologne.  The architecture alone makes the church worth a stop.

But, the church is steeped in history.  It was here that Cardinal von Galen preached his sermons of opposition to the Nazi party.  It was also here that the Anabaptist uprising was brought to it’s horrible end.

The cages that once housed the rotting corpses still hang in the church steeple.  Yes, they are the very same cages.  For a period, they were moved to the city museum, but were long since returned. One can speculate as to the reasons they were both moved and returned, but there is no doubt that they add a strange appeal, something so fascinating, shocking, and disgusting, simultaneously.  You have to look, and zoom the camera in.  

St. Lamberti also houses the “loftiest charge of Munster,” the Turmerstube, or the tower keeper.  The tower keeper position was created in the 14th century to warn citizens in the event of fire. Even today, the tower watcher regularly scans the horizon for fires, and calls the local fire department at the first sight.  The tower keeper also has the responsibility of sounding a brass horn in 3 directions over the city at 30 minute intervals each evening, from 9pm to midnight. Nowadays, the role of the tower keeper has Tuesdays off, so the horn can be heard on the half-hour, Wednesday through Monday.  

St. Paulus Dom

St Paulus Dom, in the center of Munster.
St, Paul’s Cathedral lies in the center of Munster, in the Domplatz, or Cathedral Square.

Just a short walk away is another fabulous cathedral that draws a lot of visitors.  St Paulus sits on Cathedral Square, or the Domplatz, that is truthfully the center of the city.  There seemed to be people mingling in the area at all times. It just felt like one of those great places to sit and people watch.  

To get a real experience of the city, visit the Domplatz during the weekly market on Wednesday and Saturday mornings.  About 150 vendor filled tents line the square, featuring everything from local farm fare, delicacies from around the world, and fresh cooked snacks.  Locals make a point to visit the market, so this is one of the best places to mingle, and feel the vibe of the community.

Touring the inside of the cathedral is a worthy use of time too.  It is somewhat different from some others, with a simpler decor. However, our main visit was on Catholic night, which was sort of like a revival in an American church- a time where members reignite their faith, bring visitors, and encourage others to join in their beliefs.  There was a huge congregation, with standing room only in the sanctuary. We did go in and hear some speakers, but out of respect, we did not take photos.

Astrolnomical clock at St. Paulus Dom, a cool thing to do in Munster.
Astronomical clock at St Paulus. By Островский Александр, Киев or GFDL (http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html)], from Wikimedia Commons

One can normally visit the Domkammer, or cathedral treasury, which features 12 centuries of treasures and art owned by the church, with a focus on local specialties of goldsmith and textile work.  The cathedral also houses a beautiful astrological clock, which has a carillon and a revolving magi, which perform at noon. Tuesdays through Saturdays visitors can view the clockwork. At the time of this writing, the Domkammer and Astrological clock are closed for refurbishment.  



Munster’s Cool Museums

If you are a museum person, there are a number right in the heart of the city.  If you read regularly, you know that I am a museum kind of person, BUT I did not visit any of those in Munster.  I cannot personally vouch for their quality, but based upon reputation, of few of them are said to be outstanding.  In truth, had I been aware of the Picasso Museum,I would have insisted on a visit.  It is a short walk south of the Rathaus. This was the first Picasso museum in Germany and as home to a unified collection of over 780 lithographs and 100 etchings as permanent exhibits, it is extraordinary, worldwide.   Yes, that would have been a stop I would have wanted to make.

The University

Munster University Administrative building, in the former Munster Schloss.
Munster University Administrative building, began as the Munster Schloss, or the city palace.

 

Munster is home to the University of Munster, also known as the Westfalische Wilhelms University, one of the premier educational institutions in Germany.  The school draws over 45,000 students each year. This results in a constant influx of young people, ensuring that the vibe of the city is always youthful and forward thinking.  It also brings all of the benefits that an institution of higher learning adds to a community.

The University is centered around the former city palace, or Munster Schloss.  The administrative building in itself is a place to visit, and tours can be arranged.  The University also manages 3 museums and a botanical garden for the benefit of the community.  The 3 museums are located just to the west of the Domplatz, and include the Bibelmuseum, or Bible Museum, the Geomuseum, or Museum of Geology and Paleontology, and the ArchaeologischesMuseum, or Museum of Archaeology.  The botanical gardens are located behind the Munster Schloss.   

 

Grounds party from the University of Munster, after dark, with brightly lit tents.

 

A University of this size also always brings a thriving campustown environment, and Munster is no exception.  The grounds host several major events throughout the year, and we happened to be present for one of them.  There were huge crowds of students, games refreshments, and live music.  As darkness fell, the scene looked quite lovely from a distance.  The streets surrounding the school are filled with stores and offbeat places to eat, for all tastes.



Castles

If you don’t already know it, if you don’t already know it.  Munster and the surrounding areas, known as Munsterland, are the home of some absolutely gorgeous castles.  The land in this area is very flat, so castles here had no high ground for natural defense, so most castles were built with moats to provide a means of defense.   Although being beautiful may have never been considered in the construction, it certainly was a result.

The immediate area of Munster is home to several fabulous moated castles, or Wasserschloss, as they may be referred.  Nowadays the moats have been filled in at some castles and palaces that have been repurposed for community and commercial uses.  However, some of the most glorious remain.

Hulshoff Castle, Burg Hulshoff, near Munster, Germany, in an idyllic setting.

 

Just to the west of the city is Burg Hulshoff, home to one of Germany’s most celebrated writers, Annette von Droste-Hulshoff.  The grounds are known for their stunning gardens, frequented by locals, a children’s museum, and a restaurant. We visited Burg Hulshoff, so be sure to read our story the Stunning Hulshoff Castle, to see all of our stunning photos.

 

Crossing the threshold, marching forward into 2018, at Vischering Wasserschloss.
Crossing the drawbridge that leads to the Vischering outer castle area.

 

The nearby town of Ludinghausen is the home of  Burg Vischering, once seat of the Droste zu Vischering, charged with protecting the Bishop of Munster.  It is an utterly beautiful Wasserschloss, and perhaps one of the most unique in all of Europe.  We also visited Vischering Castle, so check out our story to learn more about this amazing castle, and see all of our fantastic photos.

 

Schloss Norkirchen, a cool thing to do in Munster.
Schloss Nordkirchen has been referred to as the Versailles of Westphalia.

 

Also, just outside of the city is Schloss Nordkirchen, which is more of a palace than a castle, but in some ways more impressive.  As our guides described, castles were built to show strength, whereas palaces were built to show wealth. Schloss Nordkirchen demonstrates exactly that.  We visited this lovely palace, and will soon share our experiences there.  

There are a number of other amazing water castles in the surrounding areas, and we will soon share our entire suggested day tour, in the Day of Wasserschloss.  



Things to Do in Munster- That you probably won’t hear about anywhere else.

 

Reiselfelder

Reselfelder view from lookout platform, a cool thing to do in Munster.

 

One of the lesser known places we went was the Rieselfelder. which we certainly would have never found without local hosts. The Rieselfelder is in essence, a repurposed area, but one with the difference of being gradually taken over by wildlife.  

Originally, the area was forest.  After complete deforestation, it was used for livestock and croplands until the land was depleted of nutrients, and essentially dead.  The land deteriorated to a sort of bog or heathland. Then in the early 20th century, it was converted into a complicated waste water treatment area, where the sewage from the city and neighboring areas flowed.  

In the 1960s and 70s, the flow of wastewater began to exceed the capacity of the treatment area.  In addition, conservationists were documenting the resurgence of wildlife in the waste management area, that had been naturally taking place.  After some politics, the city built a modern waste treatment facility, and the Rieselfelder became a protected area.

Since that time, the species of waterfowl who make their habitat at the Rieselfelder has continued to increase.  In 1979 the area was recognized as a European Bird Sanctuary, and in 1983 it was recognized as a Wetland of International Importance.  

Today, the wildlife thrives.  There are a number of trails that encircle the wetlands, as well as benches and a number of overlook areas.  Locals visit the Rieselfelder daily to walk and bike the trails, or sit in peace in a serene natural environment.

 

Speicherstadt

For those who are fascinated by WWII history, Munster was once home to several facilities that were significant during the war.  While some of these are no longer in existence, others remain, often re-purposed for modern use.

 

Speicherstadt, former WWII grain storage and bakery, now used for business and events.

 

One such facility was the Speicherstadt Munster, which was an army catering facility for National Socialist troops.  The buildings at the Speicherstadt were constructed during the mid-1930s, for the purpose of preparing for war. Originally used for grain storage, they would be expanded to include a transport area and a bakery that supplied bread for tens of thousands of troops each day.  After the war, the facility would be garrisoned by British troops and used as a communications center during the years of occupation.

 

Today the buildings have been converted for a number of government functions, private business, and event venues.  However, being recognized for their historical significance, portions of the tracks, rail cars, and other structural facets have been preserved.  Informational signs are posted throughout the area to educate visitors about the original purposes of the structures.

Visiting the Speicherstadt was a surprise for me.  I did not know that the grounds even existed, and secondly, because it was not the type of place that I expected my hosts to take me.  Although I am sure the buildings are a hub of activity during business hours, it was a bit sobering to visit on a weekend morning, when all was quiet.  We were able to read the informational signs and reflect upon the events which the center was a part of.

If you would like to know more about this Speicherstadt, these two educational websites give a lot more details.  If you do not speak German, Google Translate can assist.  Landkreistag, Speicherstadt.   Munster Staedtegeschichte Projekte.
 



 

A Cool Thing to Do in Munster, that we didn’t get to do.

Aasee

Aasee recreation, a Munster cool thing to do.
By Bull-Dozer [CC BY-SA 3.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)], from Wikimedia Commons

One other fabulous place to go in Munster is the Aasee and the Promenade.  The Aasee, or Lake Aa, lies just outside the city center in a park setting that was designed for the community.  A few years ago, it was voted the most beautiful park in Europe.

Truth is, we never made to to the Aasee or the promenade during our visit.  Even though our three days were packed from morning to evening, we ran out of time.  What I am told is that walking trails circle the lake, and continue onto the promenade, which encircles much of the city center.  The entire area is alive with concessions and sculptures, making it an inviting place to jog, skate, walk or mingle.

In the park are there are a number of attractions to visit, including the Allwetter Zoo, a zoo designed to be enjoyable even in inclement weather, the Hippomaxx, a horse museum, and the Natural History Museum and Planetarium.  An attraction visitors might particularly like is the Muhlenhoff Open-Air Museum, which features a village reconstruction, depicting rural life and craftsmanship.

On the lake itself, there is a water shuttle that carries visitors from the lake terraces near the city center, to the open air museum.  It also sounds fun to rent rolling boats or paddle boats, and get out on the water.
 



 

Eating and Drinking in Munster

There is no shortage of restaurants or pubs in Munster, and it is certain that you can find something you like, and that fits your wallet.  If you are a beer  drinker, be sure to try the Munster specialty, Alt-Bier.  

Here are a few of the places we tried:

Frauenstrasse 24

Near Munster University, a former squat converted to hip dining.  There are a huge variety of choices, including sumptuous vegetarian options.  It was clearly designed for the free thinking campus atmosphere, and it was buzzing with energy.

 

 

The Heidekrug

Near the Rieselfelder, and known for being the nesting site of endangered cranes.  By the way, did you know that cranes mate for life, and return to the same nest year after year?  It was fun to watch the birds interact from the outside seating area.  The Heidekrug  is frequented by locals,  for typical country fare.

Heidekrug interior, a cool thing to do in Munster.Heidekrug restaurant, with its famous crane's nest on top.

 

Gasthaus Stuhlmacher

Right next to the Rathaus.  It has a fabulous traditional interior.  We went to the facilities, just to look around.  It is known for traditional German dishes, among other specialties.

 

Light fixture from Gashaus Stuhlmacher, Munster things to do.
Truth is, I just fell in love with this light fixture!

 

Koepi Stuben

Near the Domplatz, with a lovely outdoor seating area, with flowers and sculptures.  The menu was upscale and reservations are recommended for indoor seating.

 

Outdoor dining in Munster, cool things to do in Munster.

 

 

Lodging in Munster

We stayed in a personal home, which is the perfect thing to do if you want to get an understanding of local life, and see places that are not on a normal travelers radar.  However, not everyone has that option. Munster has ever type of accommodation, including hotels, bed and breakfasts, and guest houses, and there are choices in the area of all the sites we suggest visiting.  Prices range from about 40 Euros a night near the Reiselfelder, to 300 Euros a night in the city center.

If you don’t find something that appeals to you on your regular search engine, try the Munster city website, which has a built-in search for options you might not find elsewhere!
 



 

Getting to Munster

Munster does have an international airport outside of the city, the Munster-Osnabruck International airport.  However, getting a flight into such smaller international airports can be pricey. If you are booking far in advance, you may find a good commuter flight price from a larger city.  However, we suggest flying into a larger city, and traveling to Munster by train.

Deutsche Bahn trains are comfortable, clean, and efficient.  You can purchase tickets right off our page with our Eurorail link.  

Visit Munster, Germany – Do Cool Things!

Munster is a fabulous city to visit when traveling through northwest Germany, and one that we think she be on more travelers itineraries.  There is a ton of history, intriguing sites, and amazing outdoor areas to experience.  We were there for three days, with locals, and only just began to scratch the surface.  We hope to get back for more!

If you are looking for some great things to see, learn, and do, away from the crowds of the bigger cities, or the big name tourist attractions, Munster may be right for you.  For more information about the city, see the city website at the City of Munster.

If you are going to be in the area, don’t forget to check out our stories on Hulshoff Castle and Vischering Castle.

If none of this is quite your thing, we have stories on some fabulous locations near Dusseldorf, including Kaiserwerth, the Kaiserpfalz, and Kiefernstrasse.

If none of this suits your taste, we will be publishing more stories about awesome places in Germany soon.

Munster cool things PIn for Pinterest.

Munster Pinterest Pin.

 

 


 

9 thoughts on “Munster – One of Germany’s Coolest Cities

  1. I had a great six years there a a young British cavalry trooper. It was an amazing posting and I wish I was back there.

    1. Hello James, You know, every American soldier I know who was stationed in Germany loved it there too. A couple of them traveled to and from Muenster, but obviously none were stationed there. It truly is a beautiful city.
      On our last trip we visited several small towns in the area, and Bielfeld, but didn’t get back to Muenster. Definitely planning to on our next visit.
      I am glad we could spur some happy memories for you!

  2. Good article. I feel enthusiastic to travel there. I think this is the main success to write a blog. When you can motivate your reader by your writing, what could be better than that? Thank you so much for sharing such a nice article with nice photographs. Keep it up 🙂

    1. I know, right. Now I am thinking I have to go to Muenster, France when am in Europe this fall!

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