Before there were cars and highways and even railroads to take travelers out west, early Americans forged their way into the western states on wagon trails, such as the Oregon Trail, the Mormon Trail, and the Santa Fe Trail. Come along as we head out on a road trip on the Santa Fe Trail. But for those short on vacation time, we will spend a day in 3 towns on the Santa Fe Trail, Council Grove, Dodge City, and Santa Fe. This short version of the Santa Fe Trail road trip can be done in only 4 days, but there is enough to see and do that one could spend a week or more on a road trip on the Santa Fe Trail.
The trails of westward expansion changed the face of a fledgling nation, and have become an indelible part of the American story, considered with romance and nostalgia. Their lingering tales have long beckoned those intrigued by cowboy lore and those fascinated by the fortitude of their forebears. This calling has prompted preservation and memorializing long before the broader public recognized the significance of these pioneer paths.
Today, the US National Park Service supports and maintains the historic footsteps, or wagon wheel ruts, as a part of 10 National Trails. Preserved portions of the Santa Fe Trail cover 900 miles in 5 different states, and there are many historically significant sites, including National Monuments, National Grasslands, forts and outposts, as well as many small towns with museums and memorials along the route.
The Santa Fe Trail began in Independence, Missouri and it took about two months for pioneers to reach Santa Fe. Council Grove was the last place to get supplies and it still took weeks to reach the end of the trail at Santa Fe. Today, you can drive from Council Grove to Santa Fe in under 11 hours driving. So even if you only have a long weekend, you could spend a day in three towns that had significance on the early Santa Fe Trail.
A Santa Fe Trail Road Trip
Our Santa Fe Trail road trip is this shortened version, covering only about 640 miles. We will start in Council Grove, and spend a day there exploring the historic sites and learning the nature and hardships of the trail . Then we will visit Dodge City, for some cowboy ruckus, old west legends, along with a few other sites. Lastly, we will visit Santa Fe, for a mixture of frontiersman, Native American, and Spanish Colonial history, with a bit of the ultramodern thrown in, with a gorgeous environment and lots of outdoor options. Our 3 towns along the Santa Fe Trail offer a little something for everyone.
Three Towns on the Santa Fe Trail – Council Grove, Kansas
In Council Grove, you follow the footsteps of the settlers who traveled the Santa Fe Trail looking for a better life out west. This was your last chance to stock up for the grueling trip ahead. Council Grove was founded in the late 1840s at the site of a mile-wide hardwood grove. A group of US commissioners and the chiefs of the Great and Little Osage tribes signed a treaty in 1825 under one of those trees, Council Oak. When Seth M. Hays, a great-grandson of Daniel Boone, came here in 1847 and opened his store, Council Grove became like a combined hotel, Walmart, and Buc-ees for weary settlers heading for Santa Fe.
Council Grove is one of the Eight Wonders of Kansas History because it is a Santa Fe Trail National Historic Landmark town. The first of our 3 towns on the Santa Fe Trail, and although not the strt of the trail, it was an important stop and one unique to this path of westward expansion.
Saddlerock Café
Start your day with breakfast at Saddlerock Café. The café has been around since the 1800s. Today, the owner, Marsha Seymour, her husband, daughter, and friendly staff, serve about 2,000 visitors per week. The narrow-board ceiling, horseshoe table markers, boards displaying cattle brands, and native American blankets remind you that you are on the old Santa Fe Trail.
We visited for breakfast, and I had the French Toast. There’s a choice of White, Honey Wheat, Rye, Cinnamon, Cinnamon Raisin, Raisin Pecan, Cranberry Almond Orange, or Pina Colada. I went with the Pina Colada as it sounded so unusual. Everything is made fresh daily, and it was fantastic. Home-made bread with no preservatives always tastes better. One of my friends had a Western Omelet, a three-egg-omelet served with hash browns. And another had Strawberry Pancakes. Both looked delicious.
Neosha Riverwalk
Next stop, explore the Neosho Riverwalk, which runs along the Neosho River and connects to Flint Hills Trail State Park. Near the entrance to the Riverwalk, there’s a replica of a covered wagon. Nearby, the “Madonna of the Trail,” a statue of a pioneer woman holding a baby while a toddler hugs her leg, tells of the courage of the women who walked this trail heading west. Facing her is “The Guardian of the Grove,” a bronze statue of a Kaw Warrior, honoring the people who lived here before the white settlers.
Hays House 1857 Restaurant and Tavern
Have lunch with a touch of history at Hays House 1857 Restaurant and Tavern. Seth Hays is considered the founder of Council Grove. He first built a log cabin where he served food and had a rooming house while he traded with the Native Americans. Hays built this restaurant in 1857. What was then the Santa Fe Trail is now Main Street. The current building served many purposes. It was used for church services. The bartenders covered the bar to not offend the worshipers. The government rented space for a post office. Over the years, it played host to many famous guests, including Jesse James and General Custer.
The current owners, Frankie, Shey-Anne Greco, and Chef Randy Dickson, keep the menu true to its roots. There’s an appetizer called Bull Fries made of breaded fried rocky mountain oysters.
For my entrée, I had their Bacon Cheddar Meatloaf, glazed with a sweet BBQ sauce, and served with mashed potatoes and gravy. Delicious, but far too much for one person. Hays House is the oldest continuously operating restaurant west of the Mississippi. Be sure to check out the basement with its old bar.
Main Street
You’ll want to spend some time browsing Main Street. It’s filled with historic buildings, including a neat bookstore in a former bank building; a former Carnegie Library; The Dustie Shelf, an antique mall with an old-fashioned soda fountain in back and lots of one-of-a-kind treasures from bygone days in its booths; The Bowers Center, the former home of First Baptist Church in Council Grove, Kansas built in 1909 that looks like something from a Gothic novel; and more. You’ll also find the new Trail Days Arts & History Center.
Just past the Madonna statue on Main Street, there’s a stump called the Post Office Oak. Travelers heading west would leave mail at the base of the then huge tree to let travelers coming later know about conditions. The stone home behind the stump is a museum operated by the Morris County Historical Society.
If you continue a couple of blocks farther on Main Street, you will see the Council Oak stump. This was where the treaty by the US government and the native Americans was signed, under the tree seen on the left. The tree blew down during a windstorm in 1958, but the stump is protected by a roofed canopy.
Riverbanks Brewing
Riverbanks Brewing alongside the riverwalk offers a chance to relax and enjoy craft beers, wine, or a cocktail. The brewery is a collaboration by five friends, Pat Atchity, Jesse and Deidre Knight, and Lindsay and Joshua Gant. They began working on the brewery in spring 2020, not the best time because of the COVID-19 pandemic, but they overcame the challenges and opened Riverbanks Brewing in November 2021. They appropriately named their first beer “All In.” Most of their beers use Kansas grains and hops.
When we visited, the brewery was busy, but there were plenty of sofas, chairs, and tables to settle in at. The brewing tanks are part of the decor. There’s a long modern bar where you can enjoy one of their craft beers, some other brews, or a cocktail for non-beer-drinkers. I had one of their oak barrel aged Margaritas and it was fabulous.
Their flatbreads, pretzels, and charcuterie boards make a nice light meal. If you are looking for something more filling, you can bring in food from any of the local restaurants. One restaurant, The Trail Days Café, is a combination dining and museum in the historic Rawlinson-Terwilliger Home. You can dine in for lunch or dinner or get takeout. Their menu specializes in historic foods like bison or elk pot roast and many ethnic meals.
The Dealership Building
Don’t call it a night yet. Head down Main Street to The Dealership Building. No, it’s not a place to buy a car, but it was a Dodge dealership, then transitioned to a Ford and finally a Chevy dealership from 1919 until 1958. Before that, it was a livery stable in 1910.
It still has multiple venues. There’s a retail store, a small art gallery, a bar with a stage, an antique and architectural salvage store, and an incubator kitchen. They offer their own menu of “gourmet” hotdogs most weekends. They keep it local with Kansas foods. The hotdogs are made in Emporia and served with Guys potato chips made in Kansas City. The bar also only serves “local” craft beers and craft spirits, currently stocking over 25 beers, all made in Kansas or Kansas City, MO and a large selection of Kansas whiskeys, gins, vodkas, and tequila.
Ryan McDonald, who owns The Dealership with his wife, Amanda McDonald, said, “I liked the Dodge Brother’s “DB” logo and wanted to return the building to its original theme, so the “Dealership Building” allowed us to bring that history.”
If you’re there on a second Saturday, Trailside Market is held there. Vendors offer homemade products and homegrown produce. They try to have an event at least every two weeks. Rudy and The Lost Boys were playing the night we visited. I loved sitting at a table sipping a cocktail and listening to the music. It isn’t always bands. They sometimes have Karaoke or DJ nights. They host football and basketball watch parties, private parties of all sorts, wedding receptions, dinner parties, whiskey tastings, non-profit meetings, 4H meetings, chamber, and many other events.
Stay at Cottage House
We recommend staying at Cottage House, began in 1867 as a three-room cottage and blacksmith shop. Today they have 26 rooms in the main building, 10 rooms in their motel and two cottages. I stayed in the main house. It really is like stepping back in time while keeping all the modern conveniences like Wi-Fi.
Watts Coffee Co
Enjoy breakfast at Watts Coffee Co where they offer pastries, oatmeal, and breakfast sandwiches along with any kind of coffee you want, hot chocolate, or fruit smoothies, then head for Dodge City
Three Towns on the Santa Fe Trail Road Trip – Dodge City, Kansas
Dodge City was known as the “Wickedest Little City in the West.” When the Sante Fe Trail began, Dodge City was not born yet. It grew from Fort Dodge, built to protect the early travelers on the trail. Naturally, travelers want a drink after a long time on the road. When drinking got out of hand at Fort Dodge, the commander forbade alcohol except for officers. So, Dodge City was born about five miles outside the fort. Since there were no official law officers there, things got wild.
Today, it’s a fun place to learn the history of one of the wildest cities along the trail. There is well more to do here than one day allows, so if you are extending your Santa Fe Trail road trip and staying longer you may wish to begin with the Historic Trolley Tour to get an overview. But, if you are on a schedule, we have given one full day’s itinerary to get the most out of your time. Instead of “Get the heck out of Dodge,” you’ll want to “Get the heck into Dodge.”
Dodge City Trail of Fame
Dodge City Trail of Fame is a great starting point to learn about Dodge City. It’s a series of medallions and handprints on downtown sidewalks of celebrities who made the city famous. People including Gene Barry, who portrayed Bat Masterson on television, the real Bat Masterson, Doc Holliday, Wyatt Earp, and others.
Dodge City is also filled with statues of these. There’s Doc Holliday sitting at a Long Branch Saloon table in front of Boot Hill Museum. You can join him in one of the empty chairs for a selfie. You’ll also find statues of Wyatt Earp and Bat Masterson, and Gunsmoke’s James Arness as Matt Dillon.
Boot Hill Distillery
There’s more old west history on Boot Hill Distillery’s front lawn with a statue of a cowboy. The inscription reads “On the ashes of my campfire, this city is built.” The statue, created in 1929 by local dentist O.H. Simpson, had a real-life Dodge City lawman, Joe Sughrue, as a model.
Dodge City history and whiskey are tied together. In the spring of 1872, George M. Hoover, a French-Canadian settler, took a load of whiskey barrels five miles from Fort Dodge’s reservation. He made camp with his tent, drove two posts into the ground and set a board atop to create Dodge City’s first bar. Boot Hill Distillery honors Hoover’s spirit with its locally sourced handcrafted spirits.
The Distillery sits atop a hill that was once Boot Hill Cemetery. One legend says Boot Hill Cemetery began as a place to bury several unknown buffalo hunters found frozen to death in 1872. Reputable local citizens were buried at Fort Dodge. The less desirable or unknown people got buried at Boot Hill. In 1878, 60 graves were moved to the municipal cemetery and Dodge City’s first multi-room schoolhouse, the Third Ward school, was built here. It lasted until 1927, when it was replaced by the Spanish style Municipal Building that functioned as city offices, from city hall to marshal’s office and jail.
By 2001, the building was no longer in use and about to be demolished when the distillery bought and renovated it. You can tour the distillery and see remnants of its former use, like the vodka distiller that is much taller than normal. It’s set up in the firefighter’s hose closet. Looking up, you can still see the hooks where firefighters hung the hoses.
Besides the spirits produced there, legend says there are many other spirits from the old days hanging around.
Dodge City Brewing
If you’re there between Wednesday and Sunday, just down the hill from Boot Hill Distillery, you’ll find Dodge City Brewing. The first microbrewery in town, and in all of southwest Kansas. Besides their 11 signature beers, you can enjoy their specialty brick-oven pizza. The pizza is fantastic, and well reviewed by locals and tourists. Outside, don’t miss getting a photo with the Dodge City mural across the street.
Boot Hill Museum
After that filling pizza, head for Boot Hill Museum. You can get a ticket that covers the museum, the gunfight, and the variety show. This is more than a museum. It’s the soul of Dodge City. The museum building tells Dodge City history with over 60,000 objects, documents, and photographs.
They don’t leave out the longest running TV program. There’s an exhibit, “Hollywood and the Wild West,” focusing on Gunsmoke and other western shows. So much of Gunsmoke was based on real characters. Everyone knows Marshall Dillon was Wyatt Erpp. What I learned was the character of Miss Kitty may have been based on a Long Branch entertainer, Dora Hand. She was killed by a jealous gunman in 1878. James “Spike” Kenedy was trying to kill the mayor, but shot Ms. Hand when he fired into the mayor’s home. Kenedy didn’t know the mayor was out of town that day. Ms. Hand and another performer were staying at the mayor’s home.
Step out onto historic Front Street where you’ll find the old Dodge City Jail, a blacksmith shop, a period furnished cattleman’s home, an old schoolhouse, and more.
From Memorial Day to Labor Day, the museum is open daily from 8:00 am to 8:00 pm. Off season, the hours are reduced. You can spend hours here or even days as there’s so much to see.
Gun Fight
Dodge City had plenty of real-life gunfights in its early days, so this reenactment is perfect. During the season, there’s a gunfight on Front Street at noon and 6:30. Grab your seat on the benches behind the museum and watch as things ratchet up. The marshal and deputy are talking out in front of the Long Branch Saloon. The ladies are going in and out. It’s a normal day in the old west, then a group of cowboys and -girls saunters down the street.
The marshal tells them they must surrender the guns before they enter the saloon. At first it appears they’ll comply, but then one breaks rank, and the gunplay begins. It feels like a real gunfight.
Long Branch Variety Show
As soon as the 6:30 gunfight ends, hurry around the side to get in line for the Long Branch Variety Show held in the renovated Great Western Hotel. The Long Branch Variety Show began in 1958, making it the longest seasonal show ever.
You’ll meet Miss Kitty; Charley Beeson, owner of the Long Branch Saloon; the can-can girls; and a variety of other performers. They entertain you with songs, dance, and a lot of comedy, while you dine on a traditional Long Branch meal of tender roast beef, mashed potatoes with brown gravy, corn, green beans, hot biscuits, apple crisp, and tea or lemonade.
Stay at Holiday Inn Express
The Holiday Inn Express is close to Boot Hill Museum and housed in a historic building but offers all the modern amenities including Wi-Fi, mini refrigerator, microwave, coffee maker and a large free breakfast option. My room was comfortable and had everything I needed. There are several other brand hotels in Dodge City, but if you want to be close to the action, this is the place to stay. Enjoy the free breakfast before heading to Santa Fe.
Three Towns on the Santa Fe Trail – Santa Fe
Santa Fe, the final stop on our road trip on the Santa Fe Trail, and the trail itself. It offers a rich blend of history, art, and outdoor beauty. Founded in 1610, Santa Fe is the oldest state capital in the United States and was a major hub at the end of the Santa Fe Trail. Today, it is known for its Pueblo-style architecture, vibrant arts scene, and cultural diversity.
Santa Fe is also just a hop and a skip off of the Route 66 Road Trip, and the start of the Old Spanish Trail, as well as a couple other historic trails. Being a junction of so many trailblazers has filled the city with history, and a unique culture not found anywhere else. You find the trail’s end marker in Santa Fe Plaza, seen in the photo.
The Palace of the Governors
A good starting point is The Palace of the Governors on the north side of the historic Santa Fe Plaza. Begun in 1610 long before the Santa Fe Trail, it’s the oldest public building built by European settlers in the country.
Along the outside walls, you’ll see Native American artisans selling handmade jewelry and other crafts. When you enter the courtyard, you’ll see a big adobe oven. Imagine cooking on that!
Inside, the Palace Press is like stepping into a 19th century newspaper office or book printer on the frontier. It has exhibits of the old presses, inks, and typesetting blocks long before digital printing. There Are some old hand presses including a Platen Press from 1899.
New Mexico History Museum
The Palace of the Governors is officially part of Santa Fe’s newest historical museum, New Mexico History Museum, which is in a separate building. The history museum showcases over 400-plus years from Native Americans to the atomic age in New Mexico.
It puts you back in time with its exhibit telling the story of six Missouri traders who brought mules loaded with trade goods and blazed what became the Santa Fe Trail.
Moving into modern times, be sure to see the exhibit about Robert Oppenheimer and Los Alamos, including a replica of the Fat Man bomb dropped in Nagasaki.
Cathedral Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi
The Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi was built between 1869 and 1886 on the site of an older adobe church. It’s a Romanesque Revival style building with statues in front of St. Francis, the patron saint of the diocese; Saint Kateri, the first Native American saint; and Father Lamy, first Bishop of the Diocese of Santa Fe. The San Damiano Crucifix over the altar is a replica of the crucifix in Assisi, Italy. There’s also a mural of saints of the New World.
Santa Fe School of Cooking
By now, I’ll bet you’re ready for lunch. Why not do something different where you learn about Santa Fe cuisine and have a first-rate meal with a class at The Santa Fe School of Cooking? They offer three-hour classes most days at 10 am and 2 pm, but be sure to make your reservation early.
Our chefs explained the difference between red and green chili peppers. I had not known vanilla bean was a North American plant. They cooked a complete meal consisting of enchiladas with red or green sauce, pinto beans, corn tortillas, posole which is a kind of Mexican hominy with vegetables and chili peppers, and for dessert they made a kind of Mexican bread pudding called Capirotada. After cooking, they served us the complete meal.
The Georgia O’Keeffe Museum
Art abounds in Santa Fe. Georgia O’Keeffe is the artist most people associate with New Mexico. The Georgia O’Keefe Museum showcases the many phases of her paintings: New York abstracts, huge flowers, striking New Mexico landscapes of startling color and mountains are breathtaking.
Our museum guide explained O’Keeffe’s life through her paintings and sketches in the museum, but there are many personal artifacts as well.
IAIA Museum of Contemporary Native Arts
The Institute of American Indian Arts Museum of Contemporary Native Arts is dedicated to preserving Native American art from paintings, ceramics, sculpture, jewelry, photography, contemporary apparel, textiles, cultural arts, new media and installations.
One mural by Native American artist, Lynnette Haozous, is called Abolishing the Entrada and depicts Native American protest about an annual reenactment of conquistador Don Diego de Vargas reentering Santa Fe after the Pueblo Revolt in 1680 because they felt the reenactment was not an honest portrayal of the event.
Meow Wolf: House of Eternal Return
Meow Wolf: House of Eternal Return is not historic. It’s ultramodern. It’s what you might expect if Stephen King were to take up art and cross it with an escape room, and something completely out of the norm established by our 3 cities on the Santa Fe Trail.
The first exhibit is a replica of a Victorian home with a mystery. You know something happened here, but no one knows what. Meow Wolf is interactive. At one point, you enter a refrigerator and step out the other side into a new world. If you like ultra-modern art and escape rooms, you will love Meow Wolf. It is one of Santa Fe’s most popular attractions.
Canyon Road
You can’t experience a road trip on the Santa Fe Trail without taking home some souvenirs. Canyon Road is the place to look for something authentic to take home. It is filled with art galleries, boutiques, and good dining choices like Geronimo in the Borrego House, circa 1756. This historic district is a vibrant arts community, home to more than 100 galleries and studios. Walking down Canyon Road, you will find a diverse range of art from traditional to contemporary, with sculptures, paintings, pottery, and textiles. It’s a must-visit for art lovers and those looking to experience the creative spirit of Santa Fe.
La Fonda
La Fonda, the oldest hotel in Santa Fe built in 1922, is the only hotel on the Plaza. It’s almost a museum and art gallery as well as a hotel. They have an artist-in-residence in the lobby Thursday through Saturday and offer free docent-led tours of the hotel Wednesday through Saturday at 10:30. Good idea to make a reservation for a tour.
Besides the art throughout the hotel and in each room, each headboard is hand painted by a Native American artist and the cabinets are decorated with native carvings and elaborate tin work. My headboard had bright red and yellow flowers and there was a lamp mounted on the wall on each side of the king-sized bed.
Whether you stay at La Fonda or elsewhere, their restaurant, La Plazuela Restaurant, is the perfect place to dine. It was originally an open courtyard, but now it is enclosed and has a skylight and hand-painted windows. The food is excellent and there’s a well-stocked bar.
Two Casitas
If you plan on extending your Santa Fe Trail road trip, or being in Santa Fe more than a day, Two Casitas adobe vacation rental, La Paloma is another good option. The home is over a hundred years old with two apartments. The side I stayed at was a studio apartment with a separate, fully equipped kitchen and bath. Since it was snowing the day I arrived, I loved the warm, gas-lit cast-iron stove type heater. The cottage is real adobe, so all corners and edges are softly curved.
Don’t You Think it’s about Time to Hit the Trails on a Santa Fe Road Trip?
The Santa Fe Trail road trip offers a glimpse into the past while providing plenty of modern-day adventures. From the historic landmarks and charming streets of Council Grove to the wild west history and excitement of Dodge City, and finally to the rich cultural tapestry of Santa Fe, each stop along the trail has its own unique charm and story. These 3 cities on the Santa Fe Trail define the character of America, in many ways.
Whether you’re a history buff, an art lover, or someone looking to explore new places, this road trip on the Santa Fe Trail has something for everyone. Most of all, if you are a lover of cowboy culture, or Native American history, this is the road trip for you! So pack your bags, hit the road, and discover the treasures of the Santa Fe Trail.
Don’t Leave Us Lost on the Trail – Pin This Please.
Other Road Trips, or Nearby Locations You Might Like:
- A Route 66 Road Trip
- A Redwoods Road Trip
- A Weekend in St. Louis
- A Weekend in Little Rock
- A Weekend in Golden, Colorado
- A Weekend in Nebraska
About the Author
Kathleen Walls, former reporter for Union Sentinel in Blairsville, GA, is publisher/writer for American Roads and Global Highways. She is a photographer with many of her original photographs appearing in her travel ezine as well as other publications, contributing to many online and print publications.
She is the author of travel books, Georgia’s Ghostly Getaways, Finding Florida’s Phantoms, Hosts With Ghosts, and Wild About Florida series. Her newest book is American Music: Born in the USA in color with pictures of places related to music history.
Member of International Food, Wine, and Travel Writers (IFWTA). You can find her on Facebook, on Instagram, and on Twitter.
