Another Perfect Ireland Itinerary? 10 Days in Ireland

Ireland 10 Day Itinerary

Day 1 and 2 –  Dublin

What can we say about Dublin. Obviously, as the capital of Ireland, and the largest city, it is a must visit destination.  There is enough going on in Dublin that some travelers spend their entire vacation in the city.  Our 2 days were filled with amazing sites, BUT, we had some struggles.  I guess the most honest assessment is that we had a few misconceptions about the city that led to some challenges, and ultimately that resulted in sort of a love/hate relationship with Dublin, for us.

Perhaps I was naive, but based on all of the photos I had seen, I actually had an image of a quaint, casual, slow-paced town.  I had not yet learned how skilled travel photographers are at ensuring that their images present a desired ambiance.  Dublin iss quaint, but it is by no means casual or slow paced.

Dublin is a metropolis of about 1,200,000 residents in the city proper, and just under 2,000,000 for the urban area. No, it is not crowded like New York City, or the Amsterdam’s Dom Square, but it is very busy.  But there are bustling groups of fast walking people walking at every turn. There are also bicyclists everywhere. They are not the upright riders seen in the Netherlands or northern Germany. They are more akin to racing bicyclists, who claim the right of way, and sometimes become a tad angry when it is not given.

Driving in Dublin is also an interesting challenge.  Imagine it:  narrow streets, heavy traffic, left lane driving, AND an abundance of one way streets.  We also made the mistake of trying to use a hard copy map, rather than gps for two days.  Silly, silly, silly.  We got lost several times, and missed a couple of sites that we had purchased tickets for in advance.

We learned our lesson.  I realize few travelers are so old-school now, but do not attempt to rely upon a printed map to get around in Dublin!  Use public transportation in the city, and if you must drive, pay the extra fee for the GPS.

Dublin really is a beautiful city, with a vast and rich history, and a ton of things to do.  When lodging right in the city,  there are a number of desirable sites within walking distance. However,  the blocks are a bit longer than they appear to be on Google Maps!  Our regular readers know that we are history nerds, so taking a walk to the National Museum and the National Gallery was one of our outings.

The National Museum houses artifacts from Irish history and the national treasures. Among those are the famed Tara Brooch and the Shrine Bell of St. Patrick. The National Gallery is a world-class art museum housing European art spanning the 1400s to modern-day, including such renowned artists as Rodin, Renoir and Monet.  The history nerd thing we missed, and will definitely do on our next visit, is the Dublin Literary Pub Crawl. It looks right up my alley!

We also toured Christ Church Cathedral and Dublinia. Christ Church dates back to at least to the year 1030, as a Viking church, and its long history includes many other significant events, such as the premier performance of Handel’s Messiah. It houses the largest crypt in Ireland, with some unusual mummified remains, and the period costumes used for production of the television series The Tudors. A guided tour is very educational, AND also includes a climb to the bell tower, where visitors can actually ring the bell for all of Dublin to hear!  If you know me, you know I chimed that bell a few times!!

Just across the street is Dublinia, a youth oriented museum experience that tells the story of Dublin’s founding, the period of Norman rule, and life in medieval times. The museum is laid out as a family friendly setting, with life-size replicas and hands-on exhibits. It was more history than either of us could ever retain, but we learned a lot. I had a general knowledge of Irish history back to the days of Henry the 8th, but knew nothing of the period of Norman rule.

A few other stops included the Spire, perhaps the pride and bane of Dubliners, and Jameson Distillery, both pictured above.  We also explored the open air market, some historic parks and cemeteries, and made it out to the clubs.   If you are spending a lot of time in the city, you will not get bored, but you should still try a couple daytrips from Dublin.

Ireland 10 Day Itinerary – Day 3 and 4, Galway and surrounding attractions.

Ask a regular visitor to Ireland about their favorite places to spend time, and many of them will immediately say Galway. Galway is the 4th largest city in Ireland, with a whopping 80,000 residents. It is smaller than my hometown in the US, although it has far more traffic, and tourists, and an absolute must on any 10 day Ireland itinerary, no matter which way you choose to drive the island.

Galway is a university city, and being from a university city in the US, I recognize the unique characteristics the constant influx of students from around the country and around the world, bestows upon a city, such as the additional cultural options and the aura of relaxation and having a good time. There is an eternal essence of youth, forever being on the cutting edge of what is new and trendy. Somehow Galway manages to intermingle this youthful zest with a solid base of history and traditions, and intriguing inter-weaving that results in a quirky, comfortable feeling.

Galway has a fascinating history, which is a bit more torrid than many other cities in Ireland.  Remains of the wall built by the Normans in the 12th century still stand, protecting the oldest part of the city, what is now known as the Latin Quarter. Galway was major trading port with all of Europe in the following centuries, and was known for the constant influx of Spanish ships, and galleons in the bay. In the 16th century, the Ceann an Bhalla, or the head of the wall, was built by prominent citizens, to protect the merchant ships from looting. Over time, it became known as the Spanish Arch, which still stands.

The center of Galway is Eyre Square, presented to the city in 1710 by Mayor Edward Eyre. Eyre Square is known for many things, among them the visit and speech by President John Kennedy, on his last international rip before his assassination. Today the square has a park-like atmosphere, which includes a playground, and is a gathering place for visitors and locals alike.

One more odd bit of history that may come as a surprise to many Americans, is that Galway is the source of the terms Lynch Law, and the spinoffs Lynching and Lynch Mob. The Lynches were a prominent family in Galway history, and many held public offices, including mayor. James Lynch Fitzstephen, mayor in 1493, has become infamous for convicting his son of murder, and hanging him publicly, on his own, because members of the community refused to participate.

We spent a couple of days in Galway, staying in the Latin Quarter, which is a hub of activity. Traditional pubs, restaurants and small shops line the streets, and from early afternoon on, street performers line the cobbled roads. Walking the streets is an experience in itself, and unlike any other.  There were people from all over the world.  We found ourselves doing one of the silly things we do, which is try to guess nationalities by body language and dress.

The truth is, we spent most of our time in Galway people watching, so we can’t give you a lot of things to do.  However, we recommend you check out Fun Things to Do in Galway, from our friends at Your Irish Adventure.

We did make a point to walk along the banks of the River Corrib.  It was clear this is a focal point in the city, and residents appeared really enjoy their river front.  It is a swift moving river, and had a powerful feeling to it, probably since we were so closed to the Atlantic.  Young and old alike lined both shores.  From there we were able to walk to the Galway City Museum and stroll through the Spanish Arch.

We also made a visit to St. Nicholas Cathedral, which has stood in the Latin Quarter since 1320, and is named for the one and only St. Nicholas of Myra, patron saint of children, and mariners. Yes, that is the same St. Nicholas of Christmas fame. The Church holds a large number of artifacts and historical items. It is said that Christopher Columbus prayed at St. Nicholas before embarking on one of his journeys in 1477.  The troops of Oliver Cromwell used the church as a stable, during the siege of Galway. There is also a monument to local resident Jane Eyre inside, who is said to be the real life person Charlotte Bronte used as the model for her character in the world-renowned novel.

Galway is also a good base for day trips in Ireland.  We took a trip to the Portumna Workhouse Center, which was personally very important for me.  My father’s family emigrated from Ireland in the mid 1800s, after a long period of suffering, and a tenure in the workhouses.  Anyone with Irish ancestry in Canada, Australia, or the US, probably has some relationship to the workhouses, and owes it to themselves to learn about the workhouses, and visit one to gain a full understanding of their families hardships.

We also made a trip north,  to visit Connemara Marble and St. Brigid’s Garden.  Connemara marble is a rare form of green marble, featuring the veins of soapstone and quartz, resulting in a deep gray-green marble.  It is said it is one of the rarest marbles in the world, due to the limited quantity ultimately available.  While in Galway, a stunning example can be seen in the Galway Cathedral (which we did not visit.)  Connemara marble was used to build the support pillars in the chapel.  For a glimpse across the pond, the Senate Chamber of the State building in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania are formed of Connemara Marble.  The namesake company has a visitors center, near the quarries and Moycullen.  There is a museum, a gift shop, and an opportunity to watch the craftsmen creating their unique pieces from the raw marble slabs.  We perused the museum and shop, and picked up a few gifts there.

St. Brigid is the second patron saint of Ireland, after St. Patrick.  Although her influence and story are not widely known throughout the rest of the world, it is renowned in Ireland.  The remnants of her influence still stand throughout the country, and live in the  myths and legends as well.  St. Brigid’s Gardens is unusual in that it is not an actual location from Brigid’s life, nor a historical monument.  Rather, it is a planned garden environment which relays her story and myths, through horticultural art, and replication.   There are separate sections of the garden themed for each season, and the aspects of Brigid that are related.   It is both a peaceful and spiritual place, in a lovely setting.

At this point, if you want to do something a little different from the norm, you may want to turn north instead of south.  You will find far fewer tourists, equally stunning scenery, and some of the most amazing castles in Ireland.  If this sounds up your alley, we recommend that you check out The Best Castle Itinerary from Galway to Donegal, by our friends at Our Sweet Adventures!

Ireland 10 Day Itinerary – Day 5, The Burren and the Cliffs of Moher

After leaving Galway, we headed toward Dingle. This drive would normally take just a few hours, but rather than drive direct, we made it a sightseeing day, and skirted the coast. What a day of sights it was.  We started by driving through the Burren. The Burren is one of those incredibly unique landscapes that is not found anywhere else on the planet. The ecosystem formed there has been classified as a UNESCO Geological Park, to ensure it’s protection.

There numerous things to see and do in the area of the Burren.  If you have more time, there is definitely enough to spend a night or two in the area. Had we have taken that option, I would have also taken a ferry out to the Aran Islands. That will definitely be in the plan for any future visit to the area. However, we had a single day, and already had tickets for certain activities pre-purchased.

We visited the Cliffs of Moher in the morning. It was an overcast and somewhat chilly day, so it was not overly crowded. It may not have made a difference on the particular day of our visit, but as another hindsight, I would choose to visit in the early evening, to experience one of the beautiful sunsets the area is known for.

We then drove down to Doolin in the early afternoon. Doolin is a small town, known for it’s fantastic traditional music, often referred to as Trad Music.  Doolin also has tourist gift shops and lodging options, as well as some very well reputed pubs. From there, we took the Cliffs cruise, which we had scheduled prior to our trip. For me, the cruise was essential to the Cliffs of Moher experience, and may have been my favorite part.

Both the Burren and the Cliffs are touristy, and some say they are overrated.  We disagree, and again, we believe the Cliffs of Moher to be an essential stop.  And if you don’t believe us, National Geographic placed the Cliffs on their list of the most beautiful places on earth!  There really is no excuse not to spend a day, if one has 10 days in Ireland.  We share the entire amazing experience at the Cliffs, and a couple dozen pictures, in our article The Cliffs of Moher and O’Brien’s Tower.

After leaving the Cliffs, we made a stop at St Brigid’s well, near Liscannor. As I briefly explained above, St Brigid is the second of Ireland’s patron saints. The holy well at Liscannor is one of the most popular holy wells in Ireland, and it is certainly one of the most well-known wells of St. Brigid. The current location is close to the original, but not exact. The shelter and alter that now stand were actually built by Cornelius O’Brien, who owned much of the area, and who also built the tower and flagstone railing at the Cliffs of Moher. In the 150 years since this shelter was built, the well has become a shrine to the Saint, and is frequented by locals and tourists alike.

We briefly explored the cemetery, and the grounds surrounding the well. The area above the well is decorated by the Cloughtie Trees, or rag trees as some call them, which are trees with strips of cloth tied to the branches by believers who pray for healing. The grotto and shrine area are filled with votive offerings- photos and mementos of loved ones for whom prayers have been given.  This is one of the more fascinating of the holy wells we visited.

This holy well in honor of St Brigid near Liscannor is worth a stop for all travelers passing through the area, even those with no interest in religion. It reveals a very important part of Irish religions and traditions that have continued for centuries, and have also been embraced by visitors to the area.  On any driving tour of Ireland you are bound to run into holy wells to any number of Saints.  After our stop, we made our way to the Dingle Peninsula.

Ireland 10 Day Itinerary – Day 6, The Dingle Peninsula

Dingle is one of those hot and cold locations in Ireland. Some people insist it is the best town on the west coast, and a must visit. Others claim it is not worth drive down the peninsula, and to spend the time elsewhere. But most travel writers include Dingle it among their Ireland highlights.  We opted to make the drive because some of our closest traveling friends strongly recommended the small town along the Wild Atlantic Way.

Yes, getting to Dingle is a bit out-of-the-way. However, while the scenery in Ireland is amazing everywhere, but the Slea Head Drive, which is at the furthest end of the Dingle Peninsula, is almost beyond imagination. It truly is jaw-dropping.

We spent 2 nights in Dingle, arriving late in the evening. Our day was devoted to driving the Slea Head. The entire route is full of interesting and gorgeous stops, with differing origins and significance. Rick Steves Ireland Guide actually gives a km by km driving tour of Slea Head Drive, where each of the stops is designated to the exact number of km from the starting point in Dingle, and explained in detail.

For movie buffs, the film Far and Away begins on the Dingle Peninsula. Some of the film locations are popular tourist sights along the route. Lord Ventry, who is depicted in the movie, was a real historical figure, who owned much of the Dingle Peninsula. His former estate still stands, and is surrounded by the tropical plants he imported. Much of the west coast of Ireland is at the tail end of the Gulf Stream, so the climate is mild, enabling these tropical plants to thrive.

Further down the drive,  the Fahan Beehive Huts can be explored. The exact dates of these forts are difficult for scientist to determine, but it is speculated to be sometime in the 12th century.

Across the road the remains of the Iron Age Dunbeg Fort can be visited. The fort is an important historical and archaeological site, enlightening scholars about life on the island during prehistoric times.  There is a small visitor’s center across the street, where an interesting educational video about the fort is shown, to help visitors understand the true significance of the rooms they are about to walk through.

Standing on the very edge of the coast, the fort suffers the brunt of Atlantic weather, and portions of the foundation were seriously damaged by weather in 2014. Unsafe areas have been cordoned off, but visitors can explore the remaining areas.

In Dingle town, we visited the Sea Life Aquarium. My son Travis, who was my traveling companion on this trip, particularly loves aquariums. Personally, I find most aquariums around the world very similar, and could bypass most. But he followed my lead 90% of the time, so it was the least I could do.  We also visited several shops, and an “American style” cafe.  We always try to visit one when we travel, just to satiate our curiosity about what others cultures think of ours.

We walked around the quaint town a couple times, and along the docks.  Harbor towns are particularly fascinating for me.  I am in love with the colors and contrasts, and I have a strange fascination with a fisherman’s lifestyle.  So watching the fishermen return to port in the afternoon in any port, is a guilty pleasure for me.

Ireland 10 Day Itinerary – Day 7 and 8 The Ring of Kerry and Portmagee

Muckross House and Gardens

We left Dingle early in the morning, and made our way to the Muckross House and Gardens, amidst the stunning Killarney National Park, and near the onset of the Ring of Kerry. Muckross House is a large Victorian mansion built-in the mid 1800s by the wealthy Herbert family.

In 1860 the family spent over a year renovating and upgrading the house for a visit from Queen Victoria. The story is that after all of the time and money spent preparing the home, the queen then spent only one night, and cancelled the rest of her stay.

Despite the disappointment to the family at the time, the renovations were lovely, and the room where the queen did spend her one night, is still intact, as it was at that time. The entire house is remarkable example of how the wealthier classes lived during the 19th century. Entrance into the house is available by guided tour.

Muckross is also known for the gardens, and the historical working farms, which can all be visited. Outside of the home, horse-drawn carriages, known as jaunting cars, are available for hire. Although there is a standard, the prices for these rides are sort of bartered at the time of hire. Be sure to negotiate your exact price, and route, to ensure you are getting what you expect. Most tours will include a stop at the Torc Waterfall, and allow time for visitors to climb to the top, for the best view.

Kissane Sheep Farm

We made a special stop at the Kissane Sheep Farm. I learned about the farm again, from the Rick Steves Ireland Guide.  I had planned this stop secretly, because I knew it would be very moving to Travis.  If you have never planned a special, secret, stop on a trip to surprise someone, you should try it.  You will feel great!

Sheep are a part of daily life in Ireland, all across the country, and they are seen everywhere. But seeing them up close, and being able to assist with feeding the young is quite a treat.  Visitors get to spend quite a while with the lambs.

A sheep dog show is also performed, where the intricacies of dog training and signals are demonstrated.  The collies are extremely intelligent, and are essential to the survival of the sheep on the farm.   Instructions are given from the corral, and the dog herds the sheep from far across the grazing land, and into the safe haven of their farm.

This visit was the absolute highlight of our entire trip for Travis.

On to Portmagee

We then made our way to Kenmare, where we visited the stone circle. There are a number of stone circles around Ireland, and the UK, with Stonehenge obviously being the most well-known. Although there are still speculations about the purposes and meanings behind the circles, it is widely accepted that they were part of ancient druidry and worship. The one in Kenmare is the largest in southwest Ireland.

We also drove through Moll’s Gap, and stopped at the Ladies View. The Ladies View is known for being one of the stops that Queen Victoria made during her visit to Muckross, where she and her ladies in waiting stopped to get a glimpse of the view over the valley. It has been known as The Ladies View ever since.  We ended this day at Portmagee, on the bottom of the Skellig Ring, which is at the bottom of the Ring of Kerry.

Portmagee is a tiny village on the tip of the Iveragh Peninsula, known for its unique New Years Eve celebrations, and a number of legends involving piracy and shipwrecks, that are intriguing.  It is also the location of the only bridge to Valencia Island, and the  primary launching location to Skellig Michael, which is several kilometers offshore.  The truth is, making it this far to the southwest is a stretch, if you are only visiting Ireland for 10 days, but I loved the town!

There is a bridge at Portmagee, leading across the channel to Valentia Island.  Valentia is worth of day of exploration or more, in itself.  It is the sit of the first Transatlantic telephone station, a point of interest to many visitors.  There is also a remarkable lighthouse on the island, a reserve where tetrapod tracks can be seen, and a historic slate mine which can be toured.  Perhaps a highlight is farm fresh ice cream, made on site.

Skellig Michael, several kilometers offshore.  UNESCO world heritage site, and filming location for two of the newer Star Wars movies. It is the home of a former monastery, and a masterpiece of ingenuity.  Boat trips to Skellig Michael run from April through September, but are dependent upon weather.  The Atlantic can be quite dangerous during storms or winds.  Visiting Skellig Michael also requires a certain degree of fitness, as there are well over 600 steps to climb to reach the monastery.  Sadly, our visit to Skellig Michael was cancelled due to weather, but we loved our time in Portmagee, and shared a personal story about it in Skellig Ring, Ireland- Home in my Heart.

Ireland 10 Day Itinerary – Day 9, The Rock of Cashel

The Rock of Cashel is also sometimes referred to as the Cashel of the Kings, and as St. Patrick’s Rock. Once an immense castle, seen from miles around, a clear indication of the power once seated there.  The Rock is still majestic, sitting atop a slab of rock that forms a hill in the midst of flat lands. It is quite a sight when driving toward the town.

This hill was a source of wonder, unexplainable in the medieval world.  There are several myths surrounding how the hilltop came to be. Was it formed when St. Patrick cast the devil out of the cave at Devil’s Bit?  This is the most popular tale.  Devil’s Bit is a mountain some 20 km north of Cashel, and the nearest source of any similar rock.  Stories surround the castle, as well as the foundation it is built upon.  It is said that this was the site where the kings of Munster were converted to Catholicism by St. Patrick.

Regardless of how the hill came to be, or why the castle was built, the Rock was the seat of the kings of Munster for centuries before the Norman invasion in 1101.  The remaining structures, the tower, the cathedral, and the Cormac’s Chapel, all date from the 1100 and 1200s.  The structure was sacked in 1647, by English soldiers during the Irish Confederate Wars.  So, what still stands is in a state of ruin, but a remarkable ruin they make.

We took a guided tour, which includes the interior of the standing Chapel and Cathedral, and the cemetery surrounding.  A lot of historical information is provided, and some amazing viewpoints are also afforded.

The town of Cashel has several other worthwhile stops, including a the Cashel Heritage Center, the Bru Boru Cultural Center, the Cashel Folk Village with it’s museum highlighting the 1916 Easter Uprising, and the Irish War of Independence, among other things.  We were on a schedule, so we did not see these attractions, but again, they are on our list for future trips.

Ireland 10 Day Itinerary – Day 10 – Kildare

Kildare is one of those smaller towns that is not widely touted among travel blogs and tourist sites, but there are a ton of things to do in Kildare.  I had considered it from the onset, because of my previously mentioned fascination with St. Brigid.  Kildare is where she lived for many years, where she set up her church, and where her true following originated.  Despite not being popular on the tourist sites and routes, it is a popular daytrip from Dublin.  We felt absolutely comfortable in Kildare.  We actually got into town just after lunch after our stop at the Rock, so we spent a day and a half in Kildare.

Kildare has a small town square, which is just steps away from St. Brigid’s Cathedral, and Tower. This is the site of many of the most wide-spread of Brigid legends.  In the square, her Perpetual Flame can be found.  Just outside of town there are also two more holy wells in her honor, also being among the most well-known, and well visited.

Perhaps the biggest attraction in the town is National Stud, which has even been visited by Queen Elizabeth.  Horse racing is a popular spectator sport in Ireland, and National Stud is a breeding and training ground for some of the country’s finest championship steeds.  The stables and training areas can be toured, and if the time is right, seeing the foals is quite a treat.  National Stud is more than just a horse training facility, though.

It is also home to two amazing gardens, the Japanese Garden designed in the early 20th century by Japanese master horticulturist Tassa Elda, and St. Fiachra’s Garden, designed in 1999 by landscape architect Professor Martin Hallinan.  There is also a playground and dining area.  There is enough to enjoy at National Stud that an entire day could be spent.

We drove to the nearby city Naas, we visited Newgrange Silver, and the very cool Silver Screen Museum.  Although it is primarily a store and business, the museum was a surprise for us in Ireland, and really a lot of fun. We definitely did not expect to visit a site featuring American screen icons in Ireland!  The amount of genuine memorabilia from some very famous movies, and some very well-known stars, such as Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn, Princess Diana, and Michael Jackson, was impressive.  

In the nearby town of Kilcullen there is a stunning historic bridge over the River Liffey with a nearby historic monument.  Along the river in this area there is also another holy well, and the Kilcullen Farm and Nature Trail.  The trail and animals are maintained by members of the adjacent Bridge Community, where people with disabilities learn work skills.  We found the Nature trail by accident, and although it was simple, we enjoyed the animals, and the happy clucking of chickens.