In recent years, the term fairy tale villages has become popular with travelers throughout central Europe. Many of the most widely know fairy tale villages are in Germany, and in fact we have created a list of almost 30 of the prettiest towns in Germany, known for their historic architecture, cobblestone streets, and medieval walls. Whether you call them German fairy tale towns, German medieval villages, or walled cities, they are found in almost every German state. And, there are many German fairy tale villages that most of us have never heard of.
Zons, Germany is a perfect example of an utterly charming medieval era, walled city, along the Rhine River. Not a name you are familiar with? We figured Zons was a perfect example of a little known German fairy tale village. We had not heard of it either, and in fact we came upon Zons by accident. We are so glad we did.
Located within the city limits of the industrial town Dormagen, about halfway between Düsseldorf and Cologne, Zons has been called the Rothenberg ob Tober of Nordrhein-Westphalia, and the Rheinland Rothenberg. The truth is that Zons has a very different look, and you will not see a lot of half-timbered buildings, such as are more traditional to the Black Forest region of Germany. The traditional structures of northern Germany are simpler, with a style similar to the Netherlands and Denmark. Nonetheless, Zons is filled with original structures from the middle ages, and it has an rustic charm, that is a breath of fresh air in an area that was once dominated by heavy industry.
We highly recommend visiting Zons city for anyone traveling through Nordrhein-Westphalia, or when spending a few days in Düsseldorf or Cologne. In another article, we actually suggest it as one of the perfect unique day trips from Düsseldorf. Hopefully we have piqued your interest, and you want some pictures of Zons. We have plenty of photos, and we will share how to get to Zons, getting around in Zons, and all of the top attractions within the medieval walls. But this is Gypsy With a Day Job, so first, we gotta give you some history.
Zons, Germany – A Brief History
Zons began as a Rheintor, or a tollway along the Rhine River, like Kaiserwerth to the north, but 200 years later. During the middle ages when much of central Europe was regulated by the Holy Roman Empire through various factions of kingdoms, river transport was the fastest way to transport goods across the continent. Control of the river ways was powerful means of dictating what and who came into particular territories, and generating income. Toll gates were established along many of the major rivers across the continent for this purpose, a practice which continued for centuries.
The toll gate at Zons, or the Rheintor, was established for this purpose by the Archbishop of Cologne in 1322, but the management and security of a toll required personnel and soldiers. This prompted the building of the wall around the city, and various structures for administrative purposes, to protect the funds and interests of the state. There is an area called the castle, although it was not a castle of royalty, but an administrative castle for defense. While it had a moat, so it is not what is normally expected or associated with other moated German castles, or the castles of regional royalty.
Throughout the centuries, the city of Zons underwent a number of different tragedies and challenges. It was all but destroyed by fire on 3 separate occasions, in the 15th, 16th, and 17th centuries. It was also ravaged by the plague 3 times, all within the 17th century. It was damaged by artillery in the Burgundy War and the War of Cologne, and took direct cannonball fire from the Hessians in 1646, during the Thirty Year War.
But, despite all of that, it is flooding that has brought havoc on the city with the most frequency. The Rhine has spilled forth from its banks and flowed into the streets of Zons many times. The highest level of water and the greatest destruction took place in 1784, when the waters spread across the town, and crept higher than the house doorways. The 1920s were especially catastrophic, with flooding in 1920, 1924, and 1926. (This is a bit hard to grasp when seeing the tiny Rhine of today, constrained by the levees.) There is a house in the center of town that is marked with the highest water levels of various years. Finally the Zonser Dike was built in 1929, and has successfully restrained the Rhine since then.
Eventually, water transport was no longer central to trade across the continent, the Holy Roman Empire died away, and the Rhine Toll was revoked. No longer holding a position of political importance, Zons lost its right to call itself a city under new governments with differing economies. It was just another old village that people forgot about. Ultimately, it was incorporated by Dormagen, a city which was virtually non-existent in earlier centuries, and Zons legally did not exist.
After the fall of the Berlin Wall, and the reunification of Germany, cities and communities gradually began to recognize the historical gems in their area. Being of little military importance, Zons and the surrounding farmlands had remained relatively undamaged in WWII. With its intact city walls, gates and towers, it was unique in the lower Rhine Valley, and Zons medieval village was recognized as a historical monument.
In 1992, the Dormagen City Council voted to grant the area of the Zons the right to call itself the City of Zons, or Stadt Zons, in recognition of this significant historical value. Although the term fairy tale villages had not become a thing at that time, that essence was already part of the experience, as the Marchenspiele, or Fairy Tale Theater at Zons, became a popular summer attraction, and other similar activities were gradually being added to the events calendar. Zons was truly a German fairy tale village, even though it was unknown to the rest of the world.
Getting to Zons
Zons lays along the west side of the Rhine, midway between Düsseldorf and Cologne, within the city limits of Dormagen. If coming from Düsseldorf, like we did, cross to the west side of the Rhine in one of the cities, and use route 9. You can also drive south to the suburb of Urdenbach and use the ferry to cross the Rhine. The ferry drops just north of the parking area for Zons. In all honesty, approaching Zons on the east side of the river is not exactly a lovely drive through the country, as it passes through some industrial areas.
If you are coming from Cologne, highway 57 will take you most of the way to Zons.
Another option for visiting Zons from either of the two major cities is a Rhine cruise. Both cities offer day trip cruises to Zons. The only disadvantage to these cruises is the amount of time free to explore Zons is a bit short. While it might be enough for the curious or an Instagram tourist, it would not be enough for a real traveler, or someone with a real historical interest.
There are 2 parking areas outside of the city walls. Residents do park at their homes, and some of the businesses within the walls have a parking spot for customers, so there are some vehicles within the city. But generally, visitors park in one of the two parking lots, or Parkplatzs.
One lot lies on the southwest corner of the town, with walkways leading to an entrance through the city wall on the west side, and is referred to as the “Old Field Entrance”. This entrance is exactly what the name implies, as it was the way that village residents returned home after a day of work in the fields. Coming from this direction is kind of like entering the city through the back door.
The other parking area lies on the north east corner of the city, along the Zonser dike, which leads to the main city entrance at the Rheintor, or Rhine Gate. From here you can walk directly to the city entrance, of you can take the walking trail which circles the city walls. There are also a few services set up for tourists near this gate, if you have come from afar. We chose to stop for some fries and currywurst at the outdoor seating area of Stratos, but another choices is the historic Zum Volksgarten Restaurant. For those who wish to spend a night and have all day to explore Zons, there is also Hotel Schloss Friedestrom. (There are plenty of other places for a meal or snack, and a couple guesthouses, within the city too.)
You can reserve a night at Hotel Schloss Fiedestrom right now!
Visiting Zons, Germany
Zons Points of Interest
Outside the Rhine Gate there are some informational signs that point out some historical information about the city and the points of interest. The map is big enough to take a photo so you don’t miss any of the attractions. The officially listed Zons point of interest include: the Rheintor, or Rhine Gate; the Rheinturm, or Rhine Tower; the Zollturm, or toll tower; the Pfefferbusche, or pepper box; the Krotschenturm, a tower with no literall translation; the Schweinebrunnen, or pig fountain; St Martinus, the local parrish church; the Mühlturm, or mill tower; the Juddenturm, a tower with no literal translation; the Kreismuseum, or circular museum; and the Schloss Friedestrom, or Friedestrom Castle.
Getting Around in Zons
Some visitors begin with a list of the attractions, and make a route designed to go by each of them. However, we were in a very relaxed mood on the day of our visit. We were with good friends in a beautiful place, so we went the route of walking and stopping for whatever attracted our interest. The downside of this of course, is that we did miss the Scheinenbrunnen outside of the Old Field Gate. However the upside is that we happened upon the herb garden, and the flood house, which were not listed on the map, and we were glad we saw both of them..
It is impossible to get lost in Zons, so if you are more comfortable with the walking and discovering approach, there is nothing to worry about. There are only 5 streets running north to south, and 4 streets running east to west, within the city walls.
Running north to south, Rheinstraße runs along the eastern wall of the city, with several attractions and a full array of restaurant choices. Museumsstraße is second, ending at the Kreismuseum. Grünewaldstraße leads to the Juddenturm, and Hubertusstraße runs alongside of St. Martinus. All of these streets run pretty much all the way across the city. Mühlenstraße is only 1 block long in the far southwest corner of the city, but you do want to get there if you hope to visit the windmill.
Running east to west, the first street is Mauerstraße, which is lined by the city walls on one side, and looks quiet upon first glance, but the far end is rather scenic, and is actually a favorite photo spot for many travelers. Turmstraße is primarily residential, although quite charming. At the end the name changes to Hohes Ortchen, so don’t let that confuse you. Zehntstraße is only 1 residential block between Museumstraße and Grunwaldstrasse, and it is quite possible you will never see it unless you go looking for it. Schlossstraße is last, running from Rheinstraße and the Keismuseum, past the Juddenturm and Mühlenstraße , across the city and exiting the Old Field Gate.
The Rhine Gate Entrance
This entrance is very pretty, and has a formality to it. It feels as if you are entering the city the appropriate way, the way it was meant to be entered. There is a wide street, with a small plaza on the left side. The trail head for the path around the city walls departs at the end of the plaza, and there is an ice cream shop with an outdoor seating area.
Just outside the gate is the statue of Erzbischof Friederich von Saarweden, who was essentially the founder of the city Zons. Friedrerich held the position of Archbishop of Cologne, and county Elector, a duality which was not common. He was also said to be benevolent, yet a brilliant military strategist, and financial mastermind. All of this is reflected in the ornate detail of the statue, from the formal robes of the clergy, to the armor beneath, from the keys to heaven and earth held in his left hand to the coins of the day on the base plate.
The Rheintor, or Rhine Gate, is actually more of a complex. consisting of both an inner and outer gate, the customs house, the Rhine Tower, the toll tower, and the Rheintorkapelle, or the Rhine Gate Chapel, Mary of the Angels. The customs house and chapel are actually on the outside of the city walls. On the right side, you can actually peer between the iron railing at the just past the chapel, and see the open courtyard and the outside of the city walls where centuries ago, there was a moat.
Between the inner and outer gates, the top opens up, but there is no way for a visitor to go but on through, although there is a doorway to the customs house in the center. There are some details in the structures that catch the visitors eye, although I am sure we missed some of them, including some small statues and engravings. At times buskers will sit between the two gates playing music in hope of earning a few Euros.
The Rhine Tower sits just beyond the inner city gate, and its purpose is not immediately evident, but it once served as the city prison. These structures together are rather eclectic, with distinctly different styles and shapes, but somehow they create a very esthetic entrance. Past the Rhine Tower is a very pretty building that now houses the restaurant Torschenke, known for its pretty atmosphere and trendy menu, although I am not certain what its historical purpose was.
Mauerstrasse
As soon as you clear the city gate, you will see Mauerstraße on the right hand side. It is primarily residential, and runs along the city wall. It appears as if it is not a street of interest, and we did not turn. Ironically, when I have looked at photos taken by others in Zons, I see we missed out. At the far end of the street is the Krotschenturm, a tower that is strangely different than all of the others in town. That section of the street is one of the most picturesque spots along the wall. So if you have time to explore everything, take a walk down Mauerstraße.
Rheinstraße
Going straight after you are fully through the gates is Rheinstraße, or Rhine Street. It is a pleasant entrance street, passing several attractions beginning with the gate itself, followed by the toll tower immediately after, and going all the way to the castle. Prior to Covid there were restaurants here, but now it is a strip of businesses that are pleasant to look at.
Insiders tip: If you do stop for a snack or drink, and decide to have a beer, do not order an Altbier. Because Dormagen and Zons geographically belong to Düsseldorf, you may expect that the traditional Düsseldorf beer would be served. However, Zons pays respect to its founder, the Archbishop of Cologne, and serves the traditional Cologne beer, known as Kölsch.
Turmstraße
A short ways along Rheinstraße is the turn off for Turmstraße . This is another picturesque residential street, and it is predominately homes across the city. One block down, a turn left on Museumstraße leads to the half timbered Herbert’s im Haus Ferber, a restaurant serving traditional German fare.
Pfefferbuschen
At the end of the restaurant string on Rheinstraße, is the Pfefferbuschen, or the pepper box. This is one of the three original guard towers along the wall, looking out toward the Rhine. Two of these towers still exist, but the Pfefferbuschen is the best preserved, and enables visitors to get a glimpse over the wall. We couldn’t help ourselves, and we had to climb up and get a glimpse of the Rhine, although we assumed we were breaking the rules. Now I know that the city encourages visitors to take a look. It is hard to imagine that the waters once came all the way to the side of the city. It seems small and tame now, behind the Zonser Dike.
The cafe in front of the herb garden is Schlosscafe Zons, which serves breakfast and specialty coffees, but it is the ice cream that caught our attention.
The Herb Garden
The intersection of Rheinstraße and Schlossstraße is a busy corner past the Pfefferbuschen. There is a coffee and ice cream shop with a small outdoor seating area, and immediately behind the cafe is an herb garden, or Krautergarten. This garden is not featured on the attractions list, nor have we found any other articles that mention it. However, it is open to the public, so we had to take a look.
The garden is small, with one walkway circling through. Although it is fenced, it is behind several houses, so it is not clear who maintains the garden. My traveling companions are avid gardeners, and we all enjoyed this quiet spot. We were particularly amused about the small statue of the drinking man that seemed a bit out of place. Then we saw the trellis that supported a variety of hops which are used to brew local beer. Then it all made sense.
The cafe in front of the herb garden is Schlossscafe, which serves breakfast, and a variety of specialty coffees and teas. Of particular note though, is the ice cream and deserts. The ice cream was calling our friend Monty’s name as we explored the city, so we stopped on our way back out of town. We saw other customers with a variety of spectacular ice cream creations, but we were on the move so we got sherbet cones. My son had Oranjen, obviously orange, and I had Himbere, or raspberry. I tasted his as well, so I can honestly say that both were crisp, and a bit tart, tasting fresh made. (They not quite as sweet as Americans are used to having, but this is an aspect I especially like about German treats.) We thought both were delicious, or lecker, in German.
Kreismuseum
The Kreismuseum sits at the intersection of Rheinstraße and Schlossstraße, across from the herb garden. It resides in the manor house that served the castle that once stood in Zons. The house is stately and somewhat ornate, as one might expect, but the Kreismuseum is not at all what would be expected. Yes, there is a small archeological exhibit of findings from the castle grounds, but that is where it ends.
What is found in the museum is the worlds largest accessible collection of art noveau works, including many Orvit pieces that were showcased in the 1900 World’s Fair in Paris. Another popular exhibit features textiles, an industry that was once predominant in the surrounding towns, with a core of textile wall hangings by artist Helmut Hahn. The museum also brings in a number of special exhibits throughout the year, with some recurring events.
St. Martinus
St. Martinus is the parish church for the city, and still holds regular services. The first church of Zons was built on the site in the year 1019, and was a branch for the parish of Burgel, a nearby town. In the 14th century, Archbishop Frederick had a triple-naved Gothic church built on the site. Over the centuries, the challenging events that the city faced had made their mark on the church, and the community felt that the overall construction was beyond repair.
The current three aisled Neo-Gothic church was built between 1875 and 1879. At that time several pieces from the previous building were kept, including various altar pieces, works of art, and the bells. Some of these pieces remain, however, the bells were removed and melted during the wars. The interior is simple, and in the words on the parish website, it invites silence and prayer.
Outside the church is a small shaded square, with sitting areas that also invite sitting and contemplation. Mass is held on Saturday evenings at 7, and on Wednesday afternoons at 3. The church is also open Tuesdays through Thursdays, from 9:30 to 11:30.
The Windmuhle
I have a fascination with windmills, so visiting the windmill in Zons was something that I very much looked forward to. There is a small museum inside, and the opportunity to see the inner workings close up. But, be warned, the windmill is only open on the Fridays and Saturdays from noon to 1700 during warm months. If see the inside of the mill is important to you, be sure to plan your visit accordingly.
The origins of the windmill in Zons were built before the year 1400, although it was expanded several times over the centuries, up through the 1830s, adding a second grinder, and adding a bag lift. The mill is a tower mill, meaning the top can be rotated so that it faces the best direction to capture the wind on a given day. Inside the mill, there is a coin operated motor that enables visitors to see the mill in action.
Even when the mill is not open, it is fascinating to see up close. There is a small sitting area at the bottom, so there is an opportunity to relax for a moment after walking to this back corner of the city. There are a couple informational signs that give more information about both the mill, and the walls.
I don’t think that I have ever shared that I am sort of a rock nerd, so I had looked at the city walls and side of the mill here, and stated that the large black stones looked like basalt, but they could not be, as there were no volcanic sources in the area. But, the informational signs confirmed that the stone is indeed, basalt. Where the stones came from was a mystery I had to research upon returning home. It turns out that there are 4 sources of basalt in Germany, although the closest is about 100 kilometers away. How it was transported during the medieval centuries is yet another mystery to solve.
The Juddenturm
The Judenturm is the tallest structure in Zons, and it has a interesting appearance. However, both the meaning of its name has been lost over the centuries, although there are several theories. The tower itself also remains somewhat of a mystery, as beyond a dungeon where thieves and dangerous criminals were held, none of the other purposes of the tower are known. Obviously considering the work it would have taken to build in the pre-technology, it had to have some significance to the community. In an era of fear and little education, perhaps a dungeon was enough. There are religious and undefined symbols etched into the interior walls that still cause historians to speculate.
Schloss Friedestrom
Located behind the Kreismuseum, at the end of Rheinstraße, Schloss Friedstronm is the local castle. And while I would like to say, what’s a German fairy tale village without a castle, it is not what you would expect. While there was once a castle on this location, now it is only a few remains. I forewarn you, because as a castle lover, I was hoping for something immense from the 14th century.
There is a small open plaza before the Schloss, but strangely there it is alongside a very modern building that houses some of the museum exhibits. But there is a nice stone archway that leads to a pleasant and shaded outdoor courtyard in the back. If you wish to see a more castle-like look, go to the outside of the city walls, where there is a more formal appearance to the small castle structure. There is also an open air theater area behind the castle which is used for a number of events and performances throughout the year,
Other things to do in Zons
Visiting Zons is always a pleasure, but it is especially enjoyable when an event is happening. There are a number of annual events and festivals held in Zons which draw quite a few visitors from across Germany, but in particular those from Nordrhein-Westphalen, where the city is most widely known. While these events draw crowds, they also make the experience of walking the medieval streets fully immersive.
Living up to the reputation as a German fairy tale village, one of the most popular events at Zons is the fairy tale theater Performed in the open air theater venue alongside the Schloss Freiestrom, the Marchenspiele is fun for all ages. The same theater is used for summer operetta performances.
Living up to its status as a German medieval village, Zons also hosts a popular multi-day St, Matthews Market, which is similar to what Americans refer to as a renaissance fair. Craftsmen line the streets, demonstrating their skills and selling their wares across the town. A fully dressed garrison stands guard outside the city walls, while musicians, jugglers, and bards entertain visitors on the streets. Seeing so many people in period costume along the cobblestone streets, you truly feel as if you are in the middle ages. As a highlight, the knights competition features a jousting tournament.
A number of other events fill the annual calendar such as the international barrel organ festival, a carnival celebration, the German mill day, and a Christmas market with a live nativity scene.
Ready to Visit Zons?
Zons might not be exactly what you imagine when you hear the caption German fairy tale village, but it definitely has a unique fairy tale charm. In an area ravaged by wars for centuries, and dominated by industry for decades, it is also a historical wonder. If you are traveling through northwest Germany, or spending time in Düsseldorf or Cologne, make the short trip. Its not every day you get to touch 800 years of history. Zons will not let you down.
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